This was written on the final day of our twelve-day European tour, sitting in the harbour waiting for the ferry home and reflecting on a trip that had somehow managed to be both relaxing and packed with memories.

The original idea was simple enough: a fairly laid-back jaunt around Germany, Luxembourg and France, with some great roads, good company and hopefully not too much trouble along the way.

Six of us set off: Rachel and Ian, Myles, Nicky, Tom and his dad Chris. After the first two nights, however, the gang temporarily split in two. Tom and Chris headed off towards the San Marino MotoGP via the Alpine passes, while the remaining four continued with the original plan. We were reunited as a group of six again on the ferry home, where there was plenty of catching up to do and stories to exchange.

Although, naturally, what happens on holiday stays on holiday! (Photo 1)

Our first couple of nights were spent in Luxembourg, where we managed to find a rather impressive castle (Photo 2) and, more importantly, some gorgeous roads.

For Myles and Nicky this was their first experience of riding in Europe, but both adapted remarkably quickly. One of the lasting memories of the trip will be the look on their faces after tackling some of the twistier roads through the Black Forest and the Vosges.

There was only one suitable way to celebrate such an achievement: cake. (Photo 3)

Nicky’s enthusiasm was occasionally tempered by the rather substantial drops beside some of the roads in the Vosges, particularly when the comforting presence of Armco barriers was noticeably absent. To her credit, she gritted her teeth and carried on.

We then settled in for six nights near the Black Forest, giving us plenty of opportunity to explore properly rather than simply blasting through.

Naturally, the famous B500 had to feature, and we rode the length of it while also finding time for some rather enormous cuckoo clocks (Photo 4), a visit to part of the Maginot Line and a wander around the picturesque Petite Venise area of Colmar. (Photo 5)

There was also an ongoing mission to get Myles to actually see a Sherman tank. Several had apparently been pointed out to him without success, so there was some satisfaction when he finally managed to spot one for himself. (Photo 6)

Our penultimate accommodation was certainly one of the more memorable places we stayed: a 13-bed Airbnb château complete with swimming pool and an outdoor barbecue kitchen.

Naturally, having been provided with all those wonderful cooking facilities, we made full use of them…

…by ordering Uber Eats pizzas and having wine delivered.

Fine dining followed on the patio. Sometimes you simply have to embrace the luxury lifestyle. (Photo 7)

The tone of the trip changed considerably during our time around Verdun.

We visited the cemetery and the Ossuaire de Douaumont, which contains the remains of around 130,000 unidentified French and German soldiers. The sheer scale of the loss was difficult to comprehend and made for an emotional and humbling visit. (Photo 8)

Even the ride towards the site tells its own story. Traces of the old trenches remain visible and signs mark villages that were completely destroyed during the fighting. Seeing how widely those reminders are scattered across the landscape gives some impression of the enormous area affected by the battle.

From Verdun we travelled on to Ypres, spending a quiet night there before visiting Tyne Cot the following day. (Photo 9)

As you approach the museum, the name and age of a fallen soldier is broadcast over the speakers. With so many names to commemorate, it is an extraordinarily powerful way of reminding visitors that every headstone represents an individual life.

While walking around the grounds we also noticed a lone Cavalry bugler. At the time we had no idea why he was there, but our curiosity would be answered later that evening.

After two cemetery visits, understandably, the mood within the group had become a little sombre. Back in Ypres, Rachel and Ian visited the cathedral while Nicky and Myles explored the Cloth Hall Museum.

That evening, however, gave us one of those moments you simply could not have planned any better.

The Last Post ceremony has become synonymous with the Menin Gate, and we had always intended to attend. Weekend ceremonies can be particularly impressive, but by a stroke of luck — or what I prefer to call psychic planning — the Band of the Household Cavalry happened to be in Ypres for our final night.

Suddenly the mystery of the Cavalry bugler at Tyne Cot was solved.

The band performed in the town centre before marching to the Menin Gate for the Last Post ceremony. Afterwards they played Nimrod as they departed. (Photo 10)

It was a fitting and incredibly moving way to end our time in the area.

After seeing the scale of loss at Verdun and Tyne Cot, it was heartening to see the care and respect with which those who died are still remembered.

And that perhaps sums up the trip rather well.

This was never intended to be a twelve-day, flat-out, “ride for your life” tour. It was a group of friends enjoying new places, good roads, history, food, scenery and each other’s company.

There were fantastic riding roads, castles, cuckoo clocks, tanks, cake, pizza at a château, some unforgettable historical sites and even a spectacular evening thunderstorm thrown in by the weather gods.

A few others had originally planned to join us but unfortunately illness prevented them from coming along. Hopefully there will be another opportunity..

Because next year’s plan is already starting to take shape…

…and it could be a doozy.